Brake discs

[G-ARBG]

Neil,

Can you supply me two blanks please leaving the 6 off attachment holes for me to drill.
Paul, discs you supplied me now committed to other suitable wheels, sorry.

R.
David G-ARBG

[Neil Spooner]

Hi Guys,

I have two discs for sale at £10ea + P&P. The drillings for the fixing bolts suit the two piece wheels, but the stainless can be drilled to fit the three piece wheels.

Neil

[MATT COOK]

Guys

I need a brake Disc - does anybody have any for sale? Its dished out, and I see several people have had this who decided to use them!

Rgds
Matt

07899007205

[Neil Spooner]

Hi Matt,

I will have a second hand pair soon, how quick do you need them?

Neil

[MATT COOK]

Hi Niel

Sooner rather than Later as my right hand one has dished meaning I have no brakes at all. Not a big deal as long as i dont need them. Really intrested if you have some. I have the origional wheels - not sure if that makes a diffrence?

Rgds
Matt

Mariogladski@hotmail.com
07899007205

[Ripley]

Neil as advised earlier I have not flown G-ENIE but during taxi trials the disk brakes sem about as good as a choclate fire gaurd , how do you make the work effectively . I was thinking about taking a look around "Halfords " at some bike parts to try to build a system . Any ideas very welcome . RiP " robert.ripley@proceq.com "

[Neil Spooner]

Hi Robert,
The original discs/pads should hold the a/c on grass up to about 2000rpm, if not you may have a problem with the set up, tight or seized cables/poor or contaminated pad material/seized ball bearing in caliper between the arm and brake pad.
The pads are available from NK&C, I replaced mine and have had no real problems other than the lack of any real stopping power. On a hard surface runway at Old Buck' I landed on the downhill runway, and cooked my discs. When they get hot they buckle and end up dish shaped. A fellow Nipper owner had some thicker discs laser cut for me, whiich have worked great, although I haven't been back to Old Buck! I did start to make a hydraulic set, but have lost interest since the others seem to be working ok. I seldom use my brakes other than power checks and very slow manouvering. If I have any concerns about engine runups, I put down some chocks which are alloy angle, and about 2inches high. With full back stick and the brakes on I can run up to full power, when I am done I use full power and forward stick to "jump" the chocks. This obviously only works at home field where I can pick up the chocks upon my return!!
To set up your calipers:
1 back off the cables at the adjusters so you have plenty of slack at the caliper.
2 undo the lock nut on the screw on the actuating arm and screw in the screw until the pads are just touching the disc, then back off 1/4 turn. This will bring the arm closer to the caliper body, tighten locknut.
3 adjust the cables to take up any slack.
For improved friction I may use a metal sintered pad in the future, such as used on motorcylce pads. (My BMW R100RS had asbestos pads, I changed to sintered metal and it made a massive difference to the 'bike.)

Neil

[Neil Spooner]

........the webpage was playing up so I have had to use another post)
Continued:
I would recommend removing the calipers, strip and overhaul and fit new sintered metal material, I used a Loctite Metalset 2 part glue to attach the pads, as the new pads don't come with the backing.
The old pads will have asbestos in them, so be sure to do the correct Health and Safety stuff, the new ones may still be asbestos base. Motorcycle and car pads are very unlikely to have any in them, but I would still play safe.
A few other owners have fitted hydraulic calipers, using various different callipers and master cylinder, I think some were Magura. Raymond Cuypers was selling a kit, his contact details are:
http://www.rar.be/pages/contact.html
Good luck, if I can help any further give me a call: 07971966286
Neil

[Pat Blenkinsopp]

Robert,
I fitted the Raymond Cuypers, Magura kit to ASXI and they work a treat. They were , however,
overpriced and would be much cheaper if you sourced online.
There are loads of different ones out there (Shimano for example)
They even do the cutest six pot calipers ones that would be right over the
top.
The trick is to get the mounting plate just right. This took a day and much swearing!!
I would rccommend some sort of hard but complient inner bushing to the spacers so that there
is a little give in the system.
Re discs. I simply cut out some( by hand) frome 1.2 mm 4130 steel and painted the non pad
contact part in auto two pack. the pad contact part does get rusty but cleans up on first brake
application.
The master cylider is mounted on the joystick and goes down to a "tee" piece near the u/c
rubbers and thence to each caliper. These brakes are the single best mod I have done and
will hold ASXI on tarmac at full throttle (3100 rpm on a Jabiru)
If you require photos of the installation, send me your email and I will get some for you.

All the best,
Belated seasons greatings to all and have a great 2010
Regards, Pat

[G-BLMW]

Hi Robert

I use the standard Nipper brakes but with a slightly thicker stainless steel disc with a larger centre hole which prevents the disc from dishing (Neil, glad to hear yours are OK) and they work fine. As Neil has explained they need to be adjusted correctly. The pads I use are cut from a pad material that I obtained from a vintage motorbike guy (can't remember who tho') Once the pads are cut (not forgetting health and safety) and you are satisfied with the size you put the pads in an oven and cook them.(do this when the other half is out 'cause it really smells ) This makes the material hard. I then sick the pads on with araldite. The brakes are good to hold for power checks and taxiing and on my placard in the cocpit it states 'do not use brakes over 20mph'.

When all the snow clears we should all meet up.

Regards

Stuart

[Ripley]

Do you still have a contact for new disks , mine are distorted and the brakes are about useless . I wiould like to start with new disks and then if no better try to modify "Halfords " bike calipers to work on new disks . This is the problem with a short field . RiP G-ENIE robert.ripley@proceq.com

[DesH]

If anyone was able / interested in getting some manufactured I would happily buy a couple of sets, mine are still ok for the moment but could do with some 'beefier' disks to go with the hydraulic calipers I have.

On the note of spares, I need some bungees very shortly (permit almost due), not getting anywhere with Nipper kits, is there anywhere else I can get a set that fit without any modification ?

[Ripley]

Hi Des H , how are you , can you advise what set up you have that uses hyd. calipers and where they come from , who supplies them ? RiP GENIE robert.ripley@proceq.com

[DesH]

Hi Ripley,

The current setup on my Nipper was already there when I bought the aircraft but after a bit of research they seem to be calipers from a scooter with a brake lever on the stick which has a built in fluid resivoir. Single hydraulic line from the lever to a t-piece under the floor which connects to each caliper, pretty simple stuff really.
For mounting the Calipers a small block of metal has been machined so that the original mounting bolts hold the block in place and the caliper bolts into the block in the correct position.

Cant tell you much more than that but after managing to put together a heath robinson bleeding system (halfords is your friend!) and getting some fresh fluid in the lines they work very well indeed, in fact the disks are by far the weak point and I well could do with something a bit more heavy duty.

Regards

Des

[Ripley]

Hi Des thanks for taking the time to reply . Any chance of a picture of the calipers ?
I am thinking of trying to mount Halfords mountain bike brakes as they are only 25 GBP per kit , so at least if it does not work I have not lost much on the experiment . RiP G-ENIE robert.ripley@proceq.com